Good ways to raise a car safely

In order to locate parts you want to repair and maintain, a car jack must raise your vehicle. It is dangerous to operate on a car that isn’t properly supported. So, you must know how car repair is managed safely. While working under a car, never tamper with the floor jack, or else the car can slide off the jack and you get crushed.

1. HAVE YOUR CAR PREPARED

Park the car on a surface that is flat, solid and level. Pull out any barriers that may block your way out from under the car. Even when raising the car wheels, still, you should set the parking brake.

2. HAVE YOUR WHEEL CHOCKS PLACED

Situate a wheel chock or any solid object in front of and behind the wheel that is set diagonal from your point of lifting. Chock the rear wheel on the passenger’s side if raising the front end starting at driver’s side.

3. HAVE YOUR JACK POSITIONED

Refer to your owner’s manual on how to properly life your car in the right place. In case you’re using a car’s jack, examine the jack and car for special notches or locaters.

4. HAVE YOR CAR LIFTED

Using the jack wrench, twist the jack and laggardly raise the vehicle. The higher you lift a car, the rockier it can be. Therefore, don’t lift the car higher than it’s safety zone needed for repair. The car should be very secure, so pay attention to how it balances on the jack.

5. HAVE A SAFETY STAND IN PLACE

Put a safety stand under the car when it’s at a good enough height. Try not to pinch fuel, exhaust, or electrical lines that run under the car. Until the safety stand can hold the car’s weight, keep on lowering jack.

6. HAVE THE SAFETY STAND TESTED

Give the car a light push or determine how stable the jack stand is. The jack stand should not be rickety. This is before you get under the car.

7. HAVE THE SECOND JACK STAND INSTALLED

Using the safety stands in pairs put a single stand on each side of either car axle. Raising the car’s other side and installing a second stand is a repeated process. Before operating underneath, again—retest the two stands for stability and strength. 

8. ELIMINATE THE CAR FROM JACK STANDS

After finishing repair and maintenance, still having in place all wheel chocks, use the jack to lift the car slightly enough to eliminate a single safety stand, at one time, and slowly bring the vehicle to ground level

Great Tips for Jump-starting Your Battery

Many drives will experience a scenario of jump-starting a dead car battery. Booster batter from another car can solve this problem, otherwise, a portable power pack. Whichever battery a driver uses, it’s acute to do it the right way.

USING A BOOSTER BATTERY TO JUMP-START

Using jumper cables are a common and efficient method to jump-start a battery; you simply connect it to another car’s battery. When the car is running, it boosts enough charging power to start the motor.

1. PLACING THE BATTERY

On both cars, locate where the batteries are to be placed. Normally, they are seated under the hood. If not under the hood, review the owner’s manual for its actual location. Spotting the where the battery is will detect how to situate the cars.

2. PUTTING BOOSTER VEHICLE TO PARK

Park the booster car right beside the inactive vehicle to make sure the cars are tightly close. Both cars should be touching noses. Jumper cables should be so very long that it can reach between batteries.

3. ALL ELECTRIC DEVICES IN BOTH CARS SHOULD BE OFF

Jump-starting your car can cause power surges that ruin electronic parts. Discharge all personal electronic devices, other devices, and turn off all radios in both cars.

4. THE HEATER FANS SHOULD TURN ON

Turn on the motor fan in both cars. Lots of power is used to run the heater fan, and if there’s a surge, it will take in the poser spike.

5. BOTH BATTERIES SHOULD HAVE CLEAN TERMINALS

The jumper cables will not make good contact with the terminals with too much corrosion. To make a very good connection, clean the battery terminals with a stiff wire brush or a brush for batteries.

6. THE POSITIVE CABLE IN ‘RED’ HOOKS UP THE BATTER’S POST
Tug the terminal covers to the side and hook a red car cable to the inactive battery’s positive post. Hook the other red cable to the positive post on the booster battery. The clamps should be fastened and don’t touch the car’s metal chassis.

7. THE BOOSTER BATTERY HOOKS UP THE ‘BLACK’ GROUND CABLE

Tug back all terminal caps and put in a black clamp on the booster battery’s negative post. Make sure the cables and clamps are kept separate from moving car parts.

8. THE ‘BLACK’ GROUND CLAMP FASTENS TO THE INACTIVE VEHICLE

The black cable’s other end has to be grounded, and must not connect to the battery’s negative terminal. Rather, it would be good to find a solid area to create the clamp connection on the chassis.

9. BOOSTER VEHICLE START-UP

Star up the booster car and run it at a modest slow-moving speed. The booster car needs time to charge the inactive battery for a moment before starting the inactive car.

10. START THE DISABLED VEHICLE.

Try to start the inactive car with the booster car still running. It may several rounds for it to start. Once in power, keep both the cars running for a moment longer.

11. REMOVE THE BOOSTER CABLES.

Pull apart the booster cables in the opposite sequence they were put in. Begin with the negative cable from the inactive vehicle. Disconnecting the cable, wait seconds to see if car’s running comes to a stop. If the car stops running, you may have issues charging the battery. Starting with the inactive battery, take off the negative cable from the booster battery and remove the positive cables.

USING A PORTABLE CHARGER FOR CHARGING

Using a portable charging device to charge a car battery is similar to a booster battery.

The positive cable joins the battery post and the negative cable joins the car’s metallic ground point. Read the portable charger’s instructions and take it off, after running the car. Be sure to power up your portable unit so it is ready to be used the next time.

The Art of a Garage that Makes Observing Your Car Easier

It is viable in its principle, when you visit a new mechanic for the first few times. When watching how a mechanic works, initialize if he’s careless with the garage tools or lowers his body on an unprotected fender, scratching paint in the process. Detect how he wipes off tools and engine surfaces with a clean cloth. See that in between joining surfaces the slightest grit can become a newfound leak. You should prevent air from passing in or out of places it dare not belong. Take control that dirty and careless practices don’t cause fluids to exude in places. Simple vehicle oil changes are a done deal—new antifreeze is unnecessary, it’s an insult to mechanics. It just produces a grey sludge. When changing oil, the water might look cloudy with a gray and oily feel, so it’s strongly suggested, the cooling system should be flushed. If you probably own an old style car you bought recently, and it’s miles are low, unfortunately—it’s a bad sign. “Time to buy a new one, already!” Aluminum engines on an old car never succeed when you open it up to change the head gasket. You just wonder, did the previous owner put in the wrong antifreeze! This calls for a justification on oil seepage—dirty, sludgy water that is very bad for the water hoses and any gasket placed in the car system. Depending on how old the car, no matter how thoroughly you drain and flush the cooling system, the plastic reservoir will stay a permanent color grey. Some mechanics are careless with handling and cleaning out parts. Sometimes, they will ignore replacing the brake fluid, so it doesn’t leak onto the floor. Apparently, the fluid might top right off! Do stay by your car while it’s being repaired, but please observe, the mechanic needs lot of space for this operation. Meaning, prevent soliciting in between him of his toolbox or work spots, as well as, his route around perimeter of car, where he will need to grab an engine air hose or such else to do his job well. When a car is up on a lift, don’t be underneath it, unless they discovered something you must see. It’s satisfactory to check the cars from side to rear for things you need watch with special care. Don’t ramble away at the expert. Discuss certain things the car has been doing that didn’t appear correct - a noise, rattling, shaking, etc. This can direct the mechanic to look closer at a part that might produce the wrong symptom. A garage is the last place you want to be – dirt, smelly and noisy, but spending all the time investing in doing this will definitely be all paid off.

Changing Your Oil every Season is a Good Idea

You should keep a few things in mind when observing how the car oil should be changed. Heat the car well, before coming to your appointment. Wait a few minutes, before letting them take your car. It will be slightly cooler for the mechanic. It’s desirable that a car is hot, so the oil easily drains to completion. Otherwise, it will stick to places inside the car engine or oil pan. When hot and runny, any grit should drain altogether. It’s likely the mechanics will put the car up on a lift and remove the drain plug from the oil pan below the engine. While everything drains out, many times, mechanics will inspect the car in all parts. Then there is the oil change procedure. Mechanics look at the brake lines, undercarriage, fuel line, gas tank, wheels, steering and suspension structures, tires and tire pressure. In any case, they will even look at your brake pads. Oil leaks in areas when up on a lift; this makes it easier for mechanics to spot. When removing and replacing the oil filter, mechanics will rigorously wipe the area that interconnects with the engine, using a clean cloth. They will also apply a daub of clean oil to the gasket of the new filter. A clean surface-to-surface connection is needed to stop leaks. Once the right amount of oil is added in your car, the mechanic will start its car engine, drive it for a while, turn it off and do a level check up. Oil can be added, even as the oil filter fills up. Many garages will apply the amount that comes with the filter. After changing oil, make aware, the ground beneath the car, where it got parked and for how long, either at home or at work. If you did not properly tighten the oil pan plug or filter, oil can bleed out and show visible wherever you parked the car. When the oil is cautiously low, taking a glimpse is a good idea! It’s a MUST to check the oil lever days after changing the oil.

It’s Essential to Change Your Own Tires each winter

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It may be a good idea to change your own car tire by getting under the car to set up the car jack and crank up the specific points. It is better to ask the brand location you purchased the car or a friend who knows about fixing tires. You might find it easier to have an older bumper that is actual metal to fasten onto. To expect any driver in the car industry to know how to change tires, as a belief, should be very simple, whichever the case may be, but it just leads to deeper issues later. We respect driver’s don’t screw lug nuts tightly on overlay with their air gun—they won’t budge! Otherwise, a tire iron can’t pry them when switching the flat tire. Using your steel lever, closely watch, as lug nuts always must loosen and/or tighten in opposite places, not beside each other. This prevents possible breakage in lug bolts when pressure pulls against them. By doing this, pressure around the wheel hub surface will likely be more consistent. The cars massive weight on a spinning wheel assembly decreases the chance your wheel and tire breaks away and rolls off into eye-opening chaos. It’s great to practice changing a tire or repair the brakes to correctly place a tire’s position. Tip, never extend your legs or place your body under a car that only a jack is supporting.

Placing a rimmed tire beneath the car’s side edge will bring your car down onto the tire, whereas, the vehicle rim should stop the tire from pounding to the ground and hurting a person working on the car—that is, if ever the jack should enable moving freely. Any tad prevention is worth a significant sum of injuries.

Keeping Your Car Fluids Filled Up For Winter Driving

Over time, they’ve made it simple, regarding where vehicle owners should place color-codes on every area, they must check this a routinely basis. Among other colors in use, the best is yellow rubber-like or plastic loops, as they grab for oil and transmission fluid dipsticks. A mechanic pours new oil into the yellow oil cap, as well as, the cap on the yellow power steering fluid reservoir. Clearly marked, is a plastic reservoir for water/antifreeze and windshield washer fluid. On the reservoir, line indicators show the mechanic how much oil to pour into the cap. Though, a mechanic should check which antifreeze to use on his car. The water reservoir has two lines—a line for adding a cold engine and another for adding a hot engine. A mechanic needs not to check the water level with self-contained batteries. If cap is removable, look inside and notice a smooth eye shape, distilled water will not need to be added. If so adding water, pour slowly until a round eye shape appears on the water surface. When checking oil, make sure it’s hot; let the car sit for a moment, it allows the oil to flow back into the oil pan, making the read up exact. When gas service is not available, check your oil minutes from turning off your car, being sure to contribute the engine still has precisely a half a quart. It’s better to run the car down half a quart than overfill the oil. Oil should be light colored without any aroma. If the oil color is way dark and drips rapidly off the dipstick, the oil change date is past due. Keep the car warmed up and running when checking up the fluid, to prevent cold fluid measurement. Transmission fluid should be light colored without aroma like something gave off heat. Always removing a dipstick, wipe it with a clean towel, dip it back in and pull it out when doing a reading. No old oily or dirty cloths for wiping the dipstick. The car doesn’t need grit or metal fragments brought into its fluids. The car brand location where you bought the vehicle would likely present where you’d find the fill tubes for oil and Transmission fluid. To stay safe, fluids and dipsticks will be hot when a car has been running and hot, so protect hands and when holding dip-sticks, so you won’t burn your skin. After your car has been long operating, it will be running hot, therefore NEVER remove the cap of your radiator. It will lead to serious burns on your body. In addition, check to add water and coolant using the plastic reservoir on the side.